2. Africa

Sudan, January 2006

Ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa, then by public transport down along the Nile to Abri and Dongola, seeing many of the sights along the way and enjoying the incomparable Nubian hospitality. After cutting across the desert to Karima for a couple of days, I spent several nights in Shendi within striking distance of the country's best known attractions. I stayed in Khartoum for the final three nights, before flying to Cairo. Unforgettable.
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Living compound, between Abri and Wawa. After a couple of nights in Abri I headed down along the Nile to see Soleb Temple on my way to the nearest population center, Dongola--a day's drive with any luck.
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Living compound, between Abri and Wawa. After a couple of nights in Abri I headed down along the Nile to see Soleb Temple on my way to the nearest population center, Dongola--a day's drive with any luck.

  • Eid meal-in-waiting, Abri. Abri was my first stop after arriving by ferry at Wadi Halfa in the far north. The Nile here presented a major contrast to built-up Egypt. I arrived in Sudan not long before Eid al Adha (Eid al-Kebir or the Feast of the Sacrifice, commemorating Abraham's near sacrifice of his son), one of the major Muslim feast-days. Lots of unfortunate sheep and goats were changing hands at the time.
  • Amara ruins, near Abri. All that are left are potsherds and a couple of scattered items such as this capital.
  • Young man, Abri. This guy and several others spent an afternoon enjoying a spirited game of dominos.
  • Domino players, Abri
  • View from Sai Island looking east, near Abri
  • Tomb, Sai Island
  • Sai Island ruins
  • Byzantine cross, Sai Island
  • Men, Sai Island
  • Fisherman, Abri
  • Living compound, between Abri and Wawa. After a couple of nights in Abri I headed down along the Nile to see Soleb Temple on my way to the nearest population center, Dongola--a day's drive with any luck.
  • Qubba Sheikh Idris, south of Abri. I was told this was a "house" (bayt), but common sense and a little research indicate it is a saint's tomb.
  • Soleb Temple. Soleb, or Solip, is a sister temple to Luxor temple in Egypt, as both were commenced by Amenhotep III. While Luxor Temple is surrounded by the noise and traffic of Luxor, Soleb feels utterly remote. One must cross the Nile by ferry to see the temple, as it's on the West Bank.
  • Soleb Temple
  • Soleb Temple
  • Man, Soleb Temple
  • Soleb Temple
  • Soleb Temple
  • Soleb Temple
  • Soleb Temple
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