1. Africa

Sudan, January 2006

Ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa, then by public transport down along the Nile to Abri and Dongola, seeing many of the sights along the way and enjoying the incomparable Nubian hospitality. After cutting across the desert to Karima for a couple of days, I spent several nights in Shendi within striking distance of the country's best known attractions. I stayed in Khartoum for the final three nights, before flying to Cairo. Unforgettable.
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Ferryman, Wawa, Sudan.  Soleb temple is on the western shore of the Nile, so a ferry is needed to cross from Wawa.
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Ferryman, Wawa, Sudan. Soleb temple is on the western shore of the Nile, so a ferry is needed to cross from Wawa.

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  • Ferryman, Wawa, Sudan.  Soleb temple is on the western shore of the Nile, so a ferry is needed to cross from Wawa.
  • Deffufa, Kerma.  Weird, ancient, and weathered, the enormous deffufas at Kerma are slowly returning to a state of nature.
  • Deffufa, Kerma.  From Kerma I headed straight down to Dongola for the night.  The last real shower I'd had had been in Egypt, and the guesthouses in Kerma did not offer such luxuries.  I arrived at the ferry crossing to Dongola (which sits on the west bank of the Nile) after an extremely dusty last stretch, only to find that the last ferry of the day had crossed already.  As so often, my patience was rewarded; by the time I had had a simple meal and made arrangements for the next day's transport, a late ferry was organized for a large number of  local people (plus me).
  • Boy, Dongola.  Onward travel from Dongola generally leaves from the east bank of the Nile.  Small boats and a larger ferry make the crossing all day.  After spending the night (and showering) in Dongola, I crossed back to the east bank for the trip across the desert to Karima.
  • Carving, Jebel Barkal.  Jebel Barkal, on the outskirts of the town of Karima, was revered by ancient Egyptians and Nubians as the home of their god, Ammon (Amun).  The ruins of a great temple remain, along with numerous small, Sudanese pyramids.
  • Carving, Jebel Barkal
  • Pillar, Jebel Barkal.  Clearly the sandstone hasn't held up as well as the granite in the previous two photos.
  • Ram, Jebel Barkal
  • Nubian pyramid, Jebel Barkal
  • Pyramid, Jebel Barkal
  • Pyramids, Jebel Barkal
  • Pyramid, Jebel Barkal
  • Hathor columns, Jebel Barkal
  • Ruined pyramids, Nuri.  Across the river from Karima, Nuri is the site of many funerary pyramids of Egypt's 25th or Nubian Dynasty.
  • Boy, Nuri
  • Fishermen, Nuri
  • Man, between Nuri and Karima.  It is very rare for women to allow themselves to be photographed, but I figured this photo of assorted backs would be OK.
  • Tanwetamani tomb, El Kurru.  El Kurru is a tomb site not far from Karima.
  • Girls, El Kurru
  • Qalhata tomb, El Kurru
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