Sudan, January 2006
Deffufa, Kerma. From Kerma I headed straight down to Dongola for the night. The last real shower I'd had had been in Egypt, and the guesthouses in Kerma did not offer such luxuries. I arrived at the ferry crossing to Dongola (which sits on the west bank of the Nile) after an extremely dusty last stretch, only to find that the last ferry of the day had crossed already. As so often, my patience was rewarded; by the time I had had a simple meal and made arrangements for the next day's transport, a late ferry was organized for a large number of local people (plus me).