2. Middle East and Central Asia

Turkmenistan, June 2008

A week was just enough time to take in Konye-Urgench, Ashgabat and the ancient sites around Mary before returning to Uzbekistan. The people are very friendly and curious, the general atmosphere quite strict.
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Earthquake Memorial, Ashgabat. The young Niyazov (presumably the golden one) survived the 1948 earthquake that killed most of his family.
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Earthquake Memorial, Ashgabat. The young Niyazov (presumably the golden one) survived the 1948 earthquake that killed most of his family.

  • Tondir, near Darvaza
  • Yurt (and plastic palms), near Darvaza
  • Darvaza gas crater. This crater is several tens of meters across and out of it pours eyebrow-singeing heat. We spent our first night in Turkmenistan here.
  • Darvaza gas crater
  • Darvaza gas crater
  • Near Darvaza
  • Near Darvaza
  • Erbent
  • Kids, Erbent
  • Himself, Ashgabat. This statue of former President Saparmurat Niyazov, high atop the Arch of Neutrality, revolves with the sun during the day. And why not?
  • Earthquake Memorial, Ashgabat. The young Niyazov (presumably the golden one) survived the 1948 earthquake that killed most of his family.
  • Ashgabat. This is the view looking south from the top of the Arch of Neutrality. The Iranian border lies about ten miles (17km) away. In the foreground to the left is the Palace of Turkmenbashi, toward the center is the Defense Ministry and at right is, I believe, Ruhyyet Palace. In the far distance, almost dead center over the Defense Ministry and near the foot of the mountains, one can just make out the Independence Monument. The streets in this part of town are utterly empty but for men in uniform.
  • This appears to be a theater.
  • Soviet War memorial, Ashgabat
  • South of Ashgabat. This is a view from the base of the Turkmenbashi Cableway, which unfortunately was not working.
  • Cultural Complex, Ashgabat. This huge (like everything else in Ashgabat) complex sits across a highway from the Independence Monument, and includes a library, theater and museum. The library contains an extensive collection of Ruhnamas--copies in many languages of former President Niyazov's book.
  • Rotating Ruhnama replica, Library, Ashgabat. This highest floor of the library is devoted to study and promotion of the Ruhnama.
  • Independence Monument, Ashgabat. Also known as the plunger. This is a very popular site for weddings.
  • Musicians, Independence Monument, Ashgabat
  • Wedding celebrants, Independence Monument, Ashgabat
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