After about two-and-a-half years living in Dushanbe I finally made my way east to the Gorno Badakhshan area, and it was about time. This area covers about half of Tajikistan but has only a tiny percentage of the population. I traveled first along the Wakhan valley bordering Afghanistan, and then headed north to the Pamir area of the Murgab region. Once in Murgab a group of us hired a car and driver to allow us to get to more out-of-the-way places, including Shaimak and Kok Jigit. Both the Persian-speaking people in Wakhan and the mainly Kyrgyz herders in the Pamir were extremely hospitable, and the trip was unforgettable.