2. Africa

Sudan, January 2006

Ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa, then by public transport down along the Nile to Abri and Dongola, seeing many of the sights along the way and enjoying the incomparable Nubian hospitality. After cutting across the desert to Karima for a couple of days, I spent several nights in Shendi within striking distance of the country's best known attractions. I stayed in Khartoum for the final three nights, before flying to Cairo. Unforgettable.
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  • Eid meal-in-waiting, Abri. Abri was my first stop after arriving by ferry at Wadi Halfa in the far north. The Nile here presented a major contrast to built-up Egypt. I arrived in Sudan not long before Eid al Adha (Eid al-Kebir or the Feast of the Sacrifice, commemorating Abraham's near sacrifice of his son), one of the major Muslim feast-days. Lots of unfortunate sheep and goats were changing hands at the time.

    Eid meal-in-waiting, Abri. Abri was my first stop after arriving by ferry at Wadi Halfa in the far north. The Nile here presented a major contrast to built-up Egypt. I arrived in Sudan not long before Eid al Adha (Eid al-Kebir or the Feast of the Sacrifice, commemorating Abraham's near sacrifice of his son), one of the major Muslim feast-days. Lots of unfortunate sheep and goats were changing hands at the time.

  • Amara ruins, near Abri. All that are left are potsherds and a couple of scattered items such as this capital.

    Amara ruins, near Abri. All that are left are potsherds and a couple of scattered items such as this capital.

  • Young man, Abri. This guy and several others spent an afternoon enjoying a spirited game of dominos.

    Young man, Abri. This guy and several others spent an afternoon enjoying a spirited game of dominos.

  • Domino players, Abri

    Domino players, Abri

  • View from Sai Island looking east, near Abri

    View from Sai Island looking east, near Abri

  • Tomb, Sai Island

    Tomb, Sai Island

  • Sai Island ruins

    Sai Island ruins

  • Byzantine cross, Sai Island

    Byzantine cross, Sai Island

  • Men, Sai Island

    Men, Sai Island

  • Fisherman, Abri

    Fisherman, Abri

  • Living compound, between Abri and Wawa. After a couple of nights in Abri I headed down along the Nile to see Soleb Temple on my way to the nearest population center, Dongola--a day's drive with any luck.

    Living compound, between Abri and Wawa. After a couple of nights in Abri I headed down along the Nile to see Soleb Temple on my way to the nearest population center, Dongola--a day's drive with any luck.

  • Qubba Sheikh Idris, south of Abri. I was told this was a "house" (bayt), but common sense and a little research indicate it is a saint's tomb.

    Qubba Sheikh Idris, south of Abri. I was told this was a "house" (bayt), but common sense and a little research indicate it is a saint's tomb.

  • Soleb Temple. Soleb, or Solip, is a sister temple to Luxor temple in Egypt, as both were commenced by Amenhotep III. While Luxor Temple is surrounded by the noise and traffic of Luxor, Soleb feels utterly remote. One must cross the Nile by ferry to see the temple, as it's on the West Bank.

    Soleb Temple. Soleb, or Solip, is a sister temple to Luxor temple in Egypt, as both were commenced by Amenhotep III. While Luxor Temple is surrounded by the noise and traffic of Luxor, Soleb feels utterly remote. One must cross the Nile by ferry to see the temple, as it's on the West Bank.

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Man, Soleb Temple

    Man, Soleb Temple

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Soleb Temple

    Soleb Temple

  • Ferryman, Wawa, Sudan. Soleb temple is on the western shore of the Nile, so a ferry is needed to cross from Wawa.

    Ferryman, Wawa, Sudan. Soleb temple is on the western shore of the Nile, so a ferry is needed to cross from Wawa.

  • Deffufa, Kerma. Weird, ancient, and weathered, the enormous deffufas at Kerma are slowly returning to a state of nature.

    Deffufa, Kerma. Weird, ancient, and weathered, the enormous deffufas at Kerma are slowly returning to a state of nature.

  • Deffufa, Kerma. From Kerma I headed straight down to Dongola for the night. The last real shower I'd had had been in Egypt, and the guesthouses in Kerma did not offer such luxuries. I arrived at the ferry crossing to Dongola (which sits on the west bank of the Nile) after an extremely dusty last stretch, only to find that the last ferry of the day had crossed already. As so often, my patience was rewarded; by the time I had had a simple meal and made arrangements for the next day's transport, a late ferry was organized for a large number of local people (plus me).

    Deffufa, Kerma. From Kerma I headed straight down to Dongola for the night. The last real shower I'd had had been in Egypt, and the guesthouses in Kerma did not offer such luxuries. I arrived at the ferry crossing to Dongola (which sits on the west bank of the Nile) after an extremely dusty last stretch, only to find that the last ferry of the day had crossed already. As so often, my patience was rewarded; by the time I had had a simple meal and made arrangements for the next day's transport, a late ferry was organized for a large number of local people (plus me).

  • Boy, Dongola. Onward travel from Dongola generally leaves from the east bank of the Nile. Small boats and a larger ferry make the crossing all day. After spending the night (and showering) in Dongola, I crossed back to the east bank for the trip across the desert to Karima.

    Boy, Dongola. Onward travel from Dongola generally leaves from the east bank of the Nile. Small boats and a larger ferry make the crossing all day. After spending the night (and showering) in Dongola, I crossed back to the east bank for the trip across the desert to Karima.

  • Carving, Jebel Barkal. Jebel Barkal, on the outskirts of the town of Karima, was revered by ancient Egyptians and Nubians as the home of their god, Ammon (Amun). The ruins of a great temple remain, along with numerous small, Sudanese pyramids.

    Carving, Jebel Barkal. Jebel Barkal, on the outskirts of the town of Karima, was revered by ancient Egyptians and Nubians as the home of their god, Ammon (Amun). The ruins of a great temple remain, along with numerous small, Sudanese pyramids.

  • Carving, Jebel Barkal

    Carving, Jebel Barkal

  • Pillar, Jebel Barkal. Clearly the sandstone hasn't held up as well as the granite in the previous two photos.

    Pillar, Jebel Barkal. Clearly the sandstone hasn't held up as well as the granite in the previous two photos.

  • Ram, Jebel Barkal

    Ram, Jebel Barkal

  • Nubian pyramid, Jebel Barkal

    Nubian pyramid, Jebel Barkal

  • Pyramid, Jebel Barkal

    Pyramid, Jebel Barkal

  • Pyramids, Jebel Barkal

    Pyramids, Jebel Barkal

  • Pyramid, Jebel Barkal

    Pyramid, Jebel Barkal

  • Hathor columns, Jebel Barkal

    Hathor columns, Jebel Barkal

  • Ruined pyramids, Nuri. Across the river from Karima, Nuri is the site of many funerary pyramids of Egypt's 25th or Nubian Dynasty.

    Ruined pyramids, Nuri. Across the river from Karima, Nuri is the site of many funerary pyramids of Egypt's 25th or Nubian Dynasty.

  • Boy, Nuri

    Boy, Nuri

  • Fishermen, Nuri

    Fishermen, Nuri

  • Man, between Nuri and Karima. It is very rare for women to allow themselves to be photographed, but I figured this photo of assorted backs would be OK.

    Man, between Nuri and Karima. It is very rare for women to allow themselves to be photographed, but I figured this photo of assorted backs would be OK.

  • Tanwetamani tomb, El Kurru. El Kurru is a tomb site not far from Karima.

    Tanwetamani tomb, El Kurru. El Kurru is a tomb site not far from Karima.

  • Girls, El Kurru

    Girls, El Kurru

  • Qalhata tomb, El Kurru

    Qalhata tomb, El Kurru

  • Qalhata tomb, El Kurru

    Qalhata tomb, El Kurru

  • Girls, El Kurru

    Girls, El Kurru

  • Man, El Kurru

    Man, El Kurru

  • Girl, Karima. This girl asked me to hold off on the photo until she put the lollipop in her mouth.

    Girl, Karima. This girl asked me to hold off on the photo until she put the lollipop in her mouth.

  • Boys, Karima

    Boys, Karima

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