From Rome I flew to Addis Ababa, then by car to Bahir Dar in the historical area to see the remarkable lake churches there. Next came the former royal capital of Gonder and ancient city of Axum, where I stayed for the Meskel festival. On my way back south by bus I stopped at several churches and monasteries in Tigrai. I then spent a few days at Lalibela, whose monolithic churches are perhaps Ethiopia's most recognizable sights, before finishing the trip far to the east in Harar. The country fully deserves its reputation as among the most culturally and aesthetically rich in Africa.